Southern Thailand, Railay

Ahhh...going to the beach in Thailand! What could be better, right Spike?

 I guess it might depend on which beach you choose, Captain! 

Spike and Captain here, to tell you about a fabulous place to visit in Thailand if you need some sand, sky, and the Andaman Sea!

We spent five days near Krabi and Ao Nang in the resort area of Railay. (Pronounced righ-lay)

To get to Railay, you will probably want to fly into the Krabi airport. At first, we thought it was an island, right, Spike?

Well, you might have, but I looked at the map!

Map of Railay

Railay is actually a peninsula, but the limestone cliffs and rock formations mean the only way to get here is by boat. You take a longboat from Ao Nammao Pier for 100 Baht per person. If there are fewer than 8 people, each person will be asked to kick in a little more until the boat operator has 800 Baht. Then it's just a 15 minute or so ride to Railay East! It also means that everything is brought here by boat and there are no motorbikes or cars!

Railay East at high tide

There is a floating pier most longboats will pull up to. If you are staying at a resort on the east side, you might disembark another way! You see, at high tide, the water is right up to the sidewalk, which is raised above the beach. At low tide, however, some resort longboats use a water motor-tricycle (tractor) pulling a trailer. Don't worry, you won't even get a toe wet!

The Water "Motor-Tricycle"

It was a bit nerve-wracking arriving in the dark an using the water motor-tricycle. After all, the water looked like it would flood the engine!

When you look out at the eastern beach, you might feel a sense of disappointment. "Where is the white sand?" 

Railay East

 I told you there was white sand, Captain. You just never listen.

Spike, you know you were disappointed, too!

Maybe a little. But the rock climbing cliffs were breath-taking. You see, a lot of people come to Railay to scale the cliffs.

Rock climbing site

But if you plan to do some extreme sports...remember this:

And, yes, that's a 5000 Baht fine!

When you are ready for those white sand beaches and clear water, head on any of the paths that lead to either Railay West Beach or Phra Nang Beach.

Path to Railay West

Along path to Phra Nang

Path to Phra Nang beside cliffs

The trees are allowed to grow, even into walls!

Along the trail under the limestone

 
 One thing to keep an eye on is the local wildlife. You might see different critters...

Besides the numerous island cats, that is!

Don't interrupt! Geez, some pirates are so rude. ANYWAY, as I was saying, the area has a lot of wildlife. The water monitors look ferocious, although much smaller than their Komodo Dragon cousins. As long as they are left alone, you'll be fine! They will charge if cornered or feeling threatened so give them space!

Water Monitor at Railay East

They can run fairly fast, although the ones we saw were walking really slowly. I think a telephoto lens is the best way to see one up close! 

And the same thing goes for the monkeys! There are actually two types in Railay. The ones we preferred only eat young leaves so they pretty much stick to the trees.

Spectacled Langur

 These spectacled langurs (also called dusky leaf langurs) are really cute, because they have circles of white and black fur around their eyes, giving them a wide-eyed, glasses-wearing appearance.

Believe it or not, they eat like the Captain! Up to two kilograms of leaves per day!

Ha ha, Spike. What about the OTHER monkey?

Those crab-eating macaques are vicious! They also eat a lot, but are aggressive and want YOUR food, water bottles...

Not to mention sunglasses, hats, and shoes! Steer clear of these because they might bite!

A family of crab-eating macaque

This macaque stole someone's snack

Birds are abundant, although we never saw any seagulls.

Heron at Railay East

Our first beach visit was Railay West. Light, powdery sand, beautiful water, and lots to do! The west side has several beachfront resorts with restaurants, a wide beach with areas marked off for swimming (no kayaks, longboats, or speedboats...this is the pick up point for snorkeling trips), you can rent a kayak, and view the limestone cliffs on the ends.

Railay West

Playing in a beached longboat

Railay West

 Our favorite beach was Phra Nang! This has kayaking available, beautiful waters, and little sheltered coves to explore at low tide! The adventurous can also swim out to this island! It's farther than it looks, though!

Phra Nang

We found a private cove

Watch out for the barnacles! High tide line

The view looking out from our cove

It was your favorite because there are the fast food boats...be honest, Captain!

Fast Food Longboats

What can I say? All that sea and sand make a bear hungry! Plus, the food is cooked right there on the longboat and is VERY affordable!

Lunch time of Red Curry Rice

I noticed you haven't mentioned the cave! 

Neither did you.

Well, you were the one describing Phra Nang. There is a shallow cave on one end of the beach. This cave, the Tham Phra Nang Nok (Princess Cave) is a sacred place where fisherman traditionally have made offerings to the Siwaleung or the Palad Khik prior to going out to sea. There is also a legend regarding the goddess of fertility so carved pieces of wood are placed in the cave, too. There is an actual type of phallus carving that is supposed to be used. People who place touristy phalluses in the cave are actually being disrespectful. Please remember it is a sacred site to local people.

Offerings at Tham Phra Nang Nok

Tham Phra Nang Nok was not the only cave we visited. We also walked to the center of Railay and up the path to Phra Nang Nai, the Diamond Cave.

It was a bit disappointing for a pirate to learn there are no diamonds in the cave.

I didn't REALLY expect to see diamonds, Spike. You were the one who was surprised about the Nopparatthara Marine National Park fee of 200 Baht to enter! It's called diamond cave because when part of the cave is flooded, a pool forms that sparkles like Phet (diamonds) due to the reflection of the rock formations being created by dripping water.

Phra Nang Nai entrance

  Don't worry about being trapped or getting your feet wet, though. There is a walkway throughout the cave. Parts of the bridges are worn or slightly broken, so watch your step!

Inside Phra Nang Nai

More formations in Phra Nang Nai

One thing to be careful of anywhere on Railay's beaches are the rocks. A lot are exposed during low tide, making it tempting for dogs, bears, and people to walk on them.  They are slippery, even if the rock looks dry!

Low Tide Rocks

Which is why after the above picture was taken we also got to explore the interior of the island medical clinic.

The Clinic Waiting Room with Mickey

Two last things to be sure you see at Railay are on opposite sides and opposite times of day. Make sure to take the time one evening to walk over to Railay West to watch the sunset.

Sunset at Railay West

 But be sure to wake up early for one morning's view of the sunrise at Railay East!
 

Sunrise at Railay East